Barri-olé!

While I am recovering from too much tradition and working on Recipe #4 of the Celebrated Chefs Cook-through, my sister offered to pen a restaurant review to amuse you all...

My sister, Kevi, and I love Mexican food. All kinds of Mexican – authentic, Tex-Mex, Southwestern, and, in a much revered category unto itself, Taco Time. The virtues of such bold flavors and carbohydrate comfort mesmerize us. For example, running a fever of 102 and craving Taco Time, I have been known to hop in my car, drive fifteen minutes to Taco Time in a fever-induced hallucinogenic haze for my soul-satisfying, comfort food of a soft bean burrito and their fabled hot sauce and, if I haven’t eaten all day, throw in a small taco salad. If this doesn’t give you enough of an idea of how much Kevi and I adore Mexican food, please note that on a trip to Ireland while I was shopping the charming streets of Dingle for Irish woolen goods and Kevi and her daughter were off pillaging the town, Kevi’s discriminating olfactory senses kicked in and…what-do-you-know…she came across...say what (?)…a Mexican joint run by a couple of Californians. In Ireland! I swear we jigged like Mexican jumping beans when she returned to our flat and blurted out her rare, sweet find. Of course I went the next day for lunch to get my RDA of refried beans, jalapenos, tortillas and hot sauce.

A few nights ago I went to Barrio, a Mexican restaurant in Bellevue, for the first time. Barrio is owned by the same tribe as Purple (which I have yet to experience). In fact, the Bellevue venues are connected. Don’t make the same mistake I did and waltz in, seat yourself at the bar while waiting on the arrival of a friend wondering why it was taking them so long and, after a good ten minutes, realize you’re in the wrong place only after picking up the wine list that sports the printed word “Purple” on it that has been sitting in front of your face the whole time. Geez. One would think that the purple décor would have given me a clue that I was in the wrong restaurant. Yeah, not me…I can be a clueless goober like that.

The kind bartender from Purple led me through the connecting hallway to Barrio where I was greeted by the sight of an open kitchen, chi-chi contemporary fixtures, a soaring ceiling and a wall of candles. No cozy Mexican restaurant was this. I steeled myself for a gastronomic Mexican experience.

Situated at the bar, I took a good look at the impressive wall of candles, thinking to myself, “These must be electric. Who has time to light all these? Blow them out?” The Barrio bartender informed me that they were indeed “real” candles. Oh my. A wall of flame.

With my friend by my side, we decided to start off with what else…a margarita. Nothing spectacular. Pretty standard. Tequila can hit me like a freight train so, to avoid any inebriated fiascos, we glanced at the appetizer menu and settled on the Ceviche & Crudo Sampler and Crispy Fried Hominy. Hominy? Really? Since my friend is a CIA-trained chef and I trust his astute judgment, I decided, “Sure. Okay.”

The Sampler, a trio of halibut, ahi tuna and rock shrimp, was served with snappy plantain chips. All three seafoods, “cooked” in an acidic showering of orange, lime or lemon juices, were lovely. The addition of avocado gave the halibut a lush, creamy consistency. What can really go wrong with good-quality raw ahi tuna? And the rock shrimp was piquant with chilies. The plantain chips were a perfect foil for each ceviche - slightly sweet and salty. The hominy? Well, that was quite brilliant. Fried and sizzling, the hominy was tossed with thinly sliced red and green chilies sauced on the side with orange chipotle aioli.

Obligatory margaritas under our belts, we segued to beer while we studied the entrée menu. Not just ANY beer, but beer taken to an exalted level with the addition of sangrita verde, spicy maria mix, lime and black pepper. Sangrita is usually a concoction of tomato and orange juices with spices. Barrio’s interpretation switched it up by replacing the tomato juice with a green component, something along the lines of tomatillo, maybe some cilantro. I couldn’t quite put my finger on it. Since I’m a big fan of “red beer” I truly enjoyed this Michelada de Barrio.

A number of entrée items on the menu included corn – enchiladas, tamales, etc. Since I am “maize challenged,” I ordered two soft tacos with flour tortillas – the flank steak taco and, on my friend’s advice, the pork shoulder taco. The flank steak taco was disappointing relying primarily on the flavor of the dry, salty Cotija cheese sprinkled over the strips of grilled steak. However, the pork taco was a different story. The tender, savory pork was tossed with golden raisins and toasted, sliced almonds. Quite nice. I also had a bite of my friend’s braised short ribs which I found fairly non-descript average. Nothing really special. What disappointed me the most was that the side of Drunken Beans we ordered failed to make an appearance. Tragic. I was eagerly anticipating these beans.

All in all, would I go back to Barrio? I have to say the experience was nice and the atmosphere, especially with that remarkable “wall of flame”, rather pleasing. Yet with so many restaurants to explore in Seattle and on the eastside, I would have to say I wouldn’t. Wait. I lie. I would go back to Barrio expressly for the beer cocktail, Michelada de Barrio. That cocktail impressed me. Ole!

BARRIO
BELLEVUE
10650 NE 4th St.
Bellevue, WA 98004

T 425.502.5021

Thanksgiving Tunnel Vision

Tradition, Tradition! TRADITION!

Picture it, Russia – 1905. Tevye, the father in the movie “Fiddler on the Roof” shouts, “Tradition, Tradition! TRADITION!”

He treasures it! He fights for it! But his family is straying from it.

“TRADITION!” Tevye demands it! He is consumed by it!

“TRADITION!” Without traditions he fears their lives would be as shaky as a “fiddler on the roof.”

Now circle with me if you will to the east coast of North America – early 1600’s…the European settlers, “pilgrims” as we call them, and the Native Americans, “indians”, sit down and share a harvest meal together. They probably serve venison, some mashed pumpkin and a little corn porridge. Chances are they don’t like each other much. The pilgrims have been crammed on a boat together for far too long and the Native Americans are not thrilled about having unexpected company. But together they were thankful that the land provided food and that for the time being, they were alive and well.

TRADITION!

Today, it is our custom to mimic that harvest meal, share it with family and friends (whether you like them or not), and count your blessings. We have added to and expanded upon the original menu based on our accessibility to a treasure trove of modern day ingredients, but I myself, will only go so far….

Travel with me now to a Seattle suburb – the fourth Thursday in November. I am standing in my kitchen shouting like Tevye in the midst of his village. TRADITION!

I have had pretty much the same Thanksgiving meal for approximately 44 years. We have perfected it so why mess with perfection? If it’s not broken why fix it?

Ours menu includes:

Basic roast turkey. I’ll vary the prep occasionally with a brine or a little herb butter tucked under the skin.

Gravy. I have been saving chicken drippings to stretch the gravy into a triple batch. I will make a vat of gravy even if there are only 3 of us. We go through this stuff.

Mashed potatoes. Cream, salt & pepper. I usually use a combo of Russets and Yukon Golds. No goat cheese, garlic, or other nonsense.

Cornbread stuffing. Onion, celery, black olives, lots of parsley. It can be cooked in the turkey or outside the turkey. Just follow the recipe. No dried fruit, sausage, oysters, cajun spices or the like.

Candied sweet potatoes. Definitely sans marshmallow. Simply steamed, sliced, caramel sauced and baked.

Vegies & Ranch Dip. Carrots, celery and packaged Hidden Valley ranch dressing made with 3 equal parts of sour cream, mayo and plain yogurt. I’ve got this down to an art.

Hot Vegetable. Some of my family members refuse to make room on their plates for the hot veggie. But, visually I need something green. Usually fresh green beans because they withstand the heating tray longer than, oh say broccoli, which turns to mush. I do not do brussel sprouts (one of the FEW things I don’t like to eat in all the world).

Cranberry Sauce. Sometimes with a little orange added. Although this relish is easy to make from fresh berries, I will buy the canned variety in a pinch, but not the jellied kind - although it does slice and sit well on a sandwich the next day.

Pickled Beets. Our family's Norwegian influence.

Canned Black Olives. At least one can per child under the age of 72. These, in addition to assorted nuts in the shell, are the only snacks or “appetizers” allowed. Save the smoked salmon spread and cheese balls for another party.

Pumpkin Pie. We have allowed a few variations on this. We have had a fabulous pumpkin cheesecake and there has been the occasional addition of apple pie as well. This year, my 12-year old daughter is making chocolate caramel tartlettes, which I think will pair nicely with pumpkin pie.

There were a few Thanksgiving dinners that we faltered in our traditional menu. We let the outside world influence our recipe boxes and kitchens. We threw tradition out the window and allowed caramelized shallots, black truffle buttered purées, herb-infused reductions, and oyster-stuffed geese to invade our table.

I have also been a guest at friends and in-laws tables for Thanksgiving. Although I am tempted to bring the entire dinner, I usually bring only what I am told and eat the meal politely, knowing full well that my refrigerator and pantry are stocked, ready to make our traditional Thanksgiving meal later that week.

Another TRADITION we have is to end the meal with a discussion called, “Name the Thanksgiving Foodstuff You Could Live Without”. We all think for a moment. Someone suggests mashed potatoes. WHAAAT? Noooo! Mashed potatoes have the perfect grainy, earthy texture to complement the silky, smoothness of the gravy. “Perhaps 2 potato dishes are too much. How about letting go of the sweet potatoes?” NNNOOOOO! Sweet & salty, sweet & salty! You have to have sweet and salty! GET REAL! “Pumpkin Pie. I think I can live without Pumpkin Pie,” one of us chimes in. But my older sister crushes that notion by arguing that it makes an excellent breakfast and is somewhat healthy as it is made from a fruit. Next, turkey is analyzed for omission. Personally, it rarely ends up on my plate during the Thanksgiving meal. I pick at it while it is resting. But, it is the base for the gravy and throughout the day exudes its hypnotic aroma as it roasts. It gives us crispy fatty skin to pick at, a carcass for soup and the quintessential sandwich the next day…utter folly to consider leaving it out. “Aha! The veggies and dip. I could live without veggies and dip.” But my mom bemoans the loss of the crisp, cool celery to combat the richness of the meal. She’s right. We shake our heads. There is nothing we can let go of…unless… How about the water? The acidity of wine or the tingle of sparkling cider is best when paired with this style of food! So yes, it’s agreed that we can live without water for Thanksgiving.

This year, as I am lured by recipes for Butternut Squash Soup or Wild Mushroom Bundles, I keep telling myself “NO!” These dishes would be fine for the 3rd Thursday of November or the first Saturday of December or any other day in-between. Not for my Thanksgiving. TRADITION!

My husband is notorious for popping off before the big day with comments like, “Let’s do salmon for Thanksgiving this year.” My family used to come unglued! It’s like firing a flame-thrower at a scarecrows convention. Now we calmly smile and respond, “That sounds like a great idea…for Christmas Eve.”

Seattle's Slug Salad?

Let me first say this, I love Assiaggio Ristorante.

I'll never forget my first visit. A friend and I were roaming the streets of downtown Seattle trying to decide where to spend our hard earned money on dinner. Chef/owner Mauro Golmarvi happened to wander out to check on diners seated outside and noticed we were eyeing his menu. He made us feel like he'd been waiting for us all evening. Where are you going? Come in. We have a table ready for you. You are a welcomed guest. A part of the family. Have a seat. Mangia! The wine and pasta flowed like gondolas through the Grand Canal.

Today I cooked Recipe #4 Celebrated Chefs Cook-Through, Portobello alla Griglia, Chef Mauro Golmarvi, Assiaggio.

It started by soaking portobello mushrooms in a marinade of balsamic vinegar, vegetable oil and fresh rosemary.

After about an hour, the mushrooms are placed on a grill to cook. Now here I must admit that we were out of propane, so I used my grill pan.

Suffice it to say, I may have missed out on some of the smokey taste that the outdoor grill would have provided.

The salad is composed of fresh greens tossed in a basic balsamic vinaigrette, sprinkled with gorgonzola and toasted walnuts.

The grilled portobellos are sliced and placed alongside.

Husband: Not enough flavor.

Daughter: (in high pitched voice indicating the telling of a lie) It's really good. I like it. Really. The mushrooms are like seasoned slugs.

Mom: (in normal voice) It's nice. I like it. Toasting the nuts really brings out the flavor. I don't think the mushrooms added much though. Hmmm...I have to remember to buy some blue cheese. I'm out.

Me: HOW CAN YOU BE OUT OF BLUE CHEESE?! And you call yourself MY mother? No you can't have any of the leftover Gorgonzola!

I was disappointed with this recipe. It was simply a nice salad. Pleasant balsamic vinaigrette, can't go wrong with blue cheese, crunchy nuts, unique twist of a cooked mushrooms. But it didn't ooze Italian flavors like the food at Assiaggo Ristorante. It didn't welcome you like you were a cherished friend the way Golmarvi does when guests enter his restaurant.

If this was "American Idol", I would say "that wasn't a good song choice for you Chef Golmarvi. I think that your Penne Vodka (pancetta, peppercorns, green onion, vodka tomato cream sauce) or your Papparadelle Cinghiale (wide pasta, wild boar ragu, kalamata olives, roasted red pepper) would have better shown off your talents."

But that won't keep me from visiting Assiaggo again soon.

Coming next...I want to use up some of the salmon my husband caught in B.C. So I'm going out of order and skipping ahead to Wild Salmon with Washington Granny Smith Apples from Chef Brian Scheehser of Trellis.

A Bunch of B.S.

Roasted, crusted, pan-fried, julienned, gratinéed, caramelized...this is the time of year that the foodie magazines, cooking blogs and television celebrities unleash an arsenal of Brussel Sprout recipes in hopes to sway anti-Brussel Sprout consumers, like myself.

This is my favorite way to enjoy them: a bunch of B.S. In other words, I'll stick with the green bean casserole, thank you very much.

Cooking today: Recipe #4 Celebrated Chefs Cook-Through

Portobello alla Griglia, Chef Mauro Golmarvi, Assiaggio

Huge Award for Washington State Winery!

WOW! Columbia Crest's Columbia Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 Reserve was just named the #1 wine for 2009 by Wine Spectator.

The regular retail price is $27 per bottle so they got extra bonus point for combining quality AND value.

Congratulations to Columbia Crest!

Recipe #3 Celebrated Chefs Cook-through

The rain was coming down in sheets as I stopped the car, grabbed the sack from the seat next to me, tucked it under my coat and made a mad dash to my front door.

I headed to the kitchen, dropped the bag on the counter, filled a medium sauce pan with chicken broth and put it on the stove to heat.

A quick forage through the fridge and pantry turned up shallots, butternut squash and smoked bacon. I chopped them up and set them aside.

Returning to the stove, I placed a large, heavy-bottomed pot over one of the burners and picked up the sack I had carried in from the car. I carefully removed its contents. The shiny bag that held the ancient ingredients sparkled mysteriously under the kitchen lights. Beneath the cellophane wrap was a favored food of the Pharoahs of Egypt. So precious was this foodstuff that some were even entombed with it for use in the afterlife - including King Tutankhamun. Radiocarbon dating has determined that some of it found at archeological sites dated as far back as 17,000 b.c...

And here it was in my 21st century kitchen located in a chilly Seattle suburb, a long way from Egypt.

Recipe #3 Celebrated Chefs Cook-Through

Roasted Emmer and Winter Squash Risotto

Chef Keith Luce

The Herbfarm

The ancient grain, Emmer, has made its way onto the menus of fine dining establishments around the world. Some credit Emmer's worldwide resurgence to its increased use in the fashionable restaurants of France's Haute Savoie. I was thrilled to find that it is being grown right here in Washington state by Bluebird Grain Farms in the upper Methow Valley. I had purchased my bag at the Roslyn Sunday Market a couple summers ago...

Back in the kitchen, I measured Emmer into the large pot and toasted the kernels a bit.

I wish I had a video to capture their movement as they jumped and popped and carried on.

Chef Luce's recipe instructs to remove the Emmer after roasting and set it aside. Then, a little butter is added to the pot and the bacon, butternut squash and shallots are sautéed, removed and set aside.

The roasted Emmer is then returned to the same pot (which now has some nice caramelized bits) and the "risotto process" begins.

When making risotto, small amounts of hot liquid are gradually added to a grain (usually arborio rice, but in this case emmer). Each addition is made only after the previous liquid has been nearly absorbed. Slowly but surely, some sort of glutenous, molecular, starchy, scientific transition happens and the grains plump and soften and the mixture gets all creamy...

But, I didn't really see that happening with this here Emmer. The recipe predicts a total of 35 minutes for the grains to absorb the 6 cups of broth and soften the grains.

Hmmmm....after 20 minutes I knew that dinner was going to be late. I made the garnish: fresh sage leaves browned in olive oil and set aside on a paper towel.

Hmmmm....after 20 minutes more, my family ate salad and biscuits for an appetizer.

Hmmmm....after 20 more minutes I gave up and stirred in the remaining ingredients: creme fraiche, the reserved squash mixture, nutmeg, salt & pepper, Parmesan cheese and olive oil.

The Emmer just didn't seem to want to take on any more liquid. I added a little more Parmesan cheese in an attempt to thicken the sauce. I brought it to the table apologizing for the delay and explaining that the dish hadn't turned out the way it was supposed to...but guess what?

It was actually quite yummy! Granted, it didn't look quite like the picture in the cookbook, but the flavors that Chef Luce put together here are fabulous! I applaud his use of a truly unique, healthy and artisan ingredient. However, it was very chewy and while I realize this is characteristic of Emmer, this was super chewy. It required the kind of chewing that probably burned as many calories as I was intaking (which is saying a lot since there was quite a bit of creme fraiche involved).

I emailed Bluebird Grain Farms explaining what happened to see if perhaps the age of my Emmer (I bought it 2 summers ago) could have affected my recipe results. I heard back from Brooke Lucy, one of the owners, who informed me that as long as the Emmer was stored in a cool dry place (like an Egyptian tomb?) it would last forever! She suggested cooking it longer and/or soaking it overnight next time.

So, the question is...will there be a next time? Well, quite honestly, I feel that a visit to the Herbfarm Restaurant is necessitated before I can attempt cooking Emmer again. I visited their website and checked out a sample menu, which showed a Braised Lamb Shank on Emmer as a course served for one of their fantastic 9-course theme dinners. The menu has changed since then and is set to change again in December, so there is no guarantee that Emmer will even be on the menu when I go. But this is a risk I am willing to take.

Coming next: Recipe #3 Celebrated Chefs Cook-Through Portobello alla Griglia, Chef Mauro Golmarvi, Assiaggio

Galette Obsession

As you may recall from a previous action-packed post - Cook With Me #7, the exquisite little galettes went into the oven with the dough all bundled tightly around their delicious filling of butternut squash, apple, onion, etc...but came out of said oven having opened up. I am determined (aka obsessed) to overcome this situation as I cook for, yet again, another kitchensink Autumn Dinner.

I am trying a new pastry recipe I found in Smitten Kitchen. Check it out and note the picture of what I expect these galettes to look like, even in their single-serving forms. Smitten Kitchen blog-hostess Deb Perelman's recipe calls for sour cream instead of egg and adds a little lemon juice...I'm going to give it a whirl (quite literally, I have my Cuisinart out and ready to go!)

It started much the same with flour, butter and salt.

The sour cream, lemon juice and ice water

are blended together and added.

The dough is turned out loose

then gathered into a ball.

The dough was refrigerated overnight.

I decided to channel my inner rustic French

peasant woman and fashion

the individual galettes by hand

instead of rolling it out.

I cut each ball into 6 sections.

And formed a rustic patty - handling the dough

as little as possible.

The pastry is brushed with a little Dijon and

topped with the filling of apple, butternut squash, onion,

butter, thyme and rosemary.

Are you following along? Because there is a really

dramatic ending coming up...

I gathered the slightly softer and stickier

dough up around the filling.

After loading an entire cookie sheet,

I put them in the fridge to really firm up in hope that

they would hold their lovely shape. Key word = hope...

After about 30 minutes, I placed that tray of lovely

little galettes into a preheated 350 degree oven.

Fifteen minutes later, I peeked in to see how the

little darlings were doing, and low and behold...

THEY WERE OPENING UP AGAIN!

DON'T TURN YOUR HEAD AWAY IN DISGUST!

LOOOOK!

WHHHYYY? Do I have to go to friggin' pastry

school to figure out what I'm doing wrong?

I even tried brushing the next batch

with a little egg wash, but NOOOOOOOO!

Okay, so these were a little better but NOT as

good as Smitten Kitchen's. I've got "galette envy"!

GGGRRRR!

I'm giving up. I really am. You won't hear anything more about galettes on my blog. I will make them again as the flavor is all that I wanted it to be, delicious, which in the end is the main thing, right?

Recipes #3 & #4 from the Celebrated Chefs Cook Through are in the works for next week. It's time to move on.